Category Archives: B16 ignition timing

B16 ignition timing

Engine ignition timing distributor spark timing is the foundation of any tune-up. It is generally the first step you need to perform as all other tune-up and carburetor adjustments depend on ignition timing being correct.

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If you have the distributor out of the engine, see Installing Distributor. The stock Datsun distributor orientation vacuum advance pointing almost straight forward. The exact orientation is not important. Because the A-series has a gear drive, you can set the timing correctly at most orientations as long as the plug wires point to the correct plugs.

Album click to view. First locate 1. Here is the up distributor:. Before checking or setting the timing, make sure the dwell is correctly adjusted. Dwell setting affects the timing. Matchbox Type: Line up teeth blue lines Album click to view Rotor should point to line degrees opposite is OK too.

If your still has the factory contact points if you haven't converted to Electronic Ignition you must set the dwell for perfect tune. To accurately check the contact points Dwell angle, use a dwell meter. This is far more accurate than simply setting the points-gap. These days we recommend a dwell meter instead of a feeler gauge.

b16 ignition timing

Be patient when setting the dwell. You may need to slightly re-adust the gap and re-check the dwell many times before it is 'right on'. This involves starting and stopping the engine multiple times. But it will be worth it when your purrs like a lion. To adjust the dwell, turn engine to TDC, remove the distributor cap, and turn this screw:. Note the timing marks on the A12 plate. These are fine-tuning Advance and Retard marks.

These are NOT used to time the engine the marks on the crankshaft pulley are. But they are very useful for advancing or retarding the timing a degree or two. Once you have this, you can note the exact timing and next time use it instead of the factory specification. Because this is factored into the distributor curves, do not advance it further at risk of exceeding the maximum advance at high RPM.

The emission controlled distributors have more mechanical advance to make up for the lesser base timing. That's a huge difference -- up to 4 degrees retarded is still within specs -- and is why you should tune your A12 for power.

Whether a stock engine, or a modified, check this out! You can possibly increase hp AND fuel economy at the same time for free! This page has been accessedtimes. This page was last modified31 May Content is available under Datsun Club. Main navigation.

Main Menu. Username: Password: Lost Password? Register now!See all 12 photos. Ignition timing is easily the single most important tuning adjustment on an internal combustion engine and yet the concept of ignition curves continues to be elusive for many enthusiasts. Yet all it takes to put the tweak to improve torque, horsepower and drivability is a simple timing light and an informed tuning process.

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Think of this as "free" horsepower. Too much timing can cause serious engine damage, so it's best to be an informed tuner. The plan behind optimized ignition timing hasn't changed since Nikolaus Otto began fooling around with the four-stroke internal combustion engine in the s. The idea is to light the charge in the cylinder with enough lead time advance to create maximum cylinder pressure at the ideal point after top dead center ATDC to push the piston down, exerting leverage on the crank.

It's generally acknowledged that peak cylinder pressure needs to occur at roughly degrees After Top Dead Center in order to maximize leverage on the crankshaft.

If the spark timing is initiated too early, the cylinder may experience detonation and potentially cause damage. If the spark occurs too late, the engine runs flat, makes less power, and may overheat. This discussion will focus on a typical distributor-equipped street engine running pump gas. An engine's ignition timing requirements will vary depending upon dozens of variables like compression ratio, fuel octane, air-fuel ratio, combustion chamber shape, mixture motion, and inlet air temperature to name a few biggies.

But condensing this down to its simplest aspects: timing is dependent on engine speed and load. Load is determined by the throttle and is easily monitored with a vacuum gauge. When the throttle is barely open, the engine demands more air than the throttle allows, creating manifold vacuum low pressure. A typical street car with a mild cam might idle at 12 to 16 inches of mercury Hg on a vacuum gauge. As the throttle is opened, manifold vacuum begins to drop.

At wide-open throttle WOTmanifold vacuum drops to near zero. Most engines will pull roughly 0. The next step is to separate ignition timing into three basic components: initial timing, mechanical advance, and vacuum advance. Our approach with this engine is to optimize the spark timing over the engine's entire operating range while minimizing the chance of detonation.Forums New posts Search forums.

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B16 ignition timing, any thoughts? Thread starter slybuthigh Start date Feb 17, Tags b16 b16a ignition timing vtec.

Joined Feb 17, Messages 9. I have a jdm ek4 sir and it goes well. I recently checked the ignition timing and found it set to 10 btdc. Any ways I set it to 16 btdc and feel it doesn't have the pull it used too. I know I can just put it back but wanted to know your thoughts on the subject. Has anyone else found a good setting? I heard about using a vacuume gauge on the inlet manifold to see which setting gives the highest vacuume reading indicating optimum ignition timing?

Thanks for any input provided and feel free to ask any questions. Joined Feb 14, Messages 1, Yeah little bit helpful, thank you. I'm a technician for Mazda so I understand the point of setting it properly, i bridged the service connector, warm engine, check idle speed with IACV disconnected then done ignition timing. I would of thought being at 10btdc would of made the car slower than 16btdc but seems other way round now I've set it to 16btdc.

I'll double check it, maybe check engine timing as cam belts probably due replacement. Joined Aug 12, Messages Has the car been mapped? No, I got a standard ecu and a spoon ecu. Timing was checked with the standard ecu which I've had on the car sometime now. From what I can remember, on the crankshaft pulley there is a single line and 3 lines.

Now of the top of my head its the 3 lines you line up. Another thing worth checking?Setting the base ignition timing is one of the most important steps in the configuration of an ECU prior to commencing the tuning process. Now today we're going to be looking at the topic of setting our base ignition timing. So obviously going to be perfect for anyone who is running an Elite series Haltech ECU, but a lot of the principles will also cross over to any brand of aftermarket ECU, so there's going to be a lot to learn for just about anyone.

Now setting the base ignition timing, really, the concept here is that we are aligning the ignition timing that we're seeing on our laptop screen, with the actual ignition timing that the engine is receiving. And this is a really critical step if we want our ignition timing to be reliable and we want of course our engine to also be reliable.

It's also a step that I know a lot of tuners just don't understand properly or overlook. And of course when you're dealing with a car that you're building from the ground up and you've freshly installed the ECU, then setting the base ignition timing would be a relatively standard step.

It's one of the steps in our 10 step tuning process that we discuss in our practical standalone engine management tuning course. But it is a step that a lot of people will overlook if they have a car that's been brought to them that's already up and running, maybe it's already been tuned previously by another workshop. It's often quite easy to make the assumption that whoever tuned it last has done their job properly and the base ignition timing is correct.

In some engines, setting the base ignition timing can also be quite a hassle. Obviously with late model engines with a lot of covers over the spark plugs, the ignition coils et cetera, actually getting our timing light into the engine bay and connected to number one cylinder's ignition coil can be pretty tricky and time consuming. So again a lot of tuners simply overlook it or don't bother at all.

Now the upshot of this is that if you don't have your base ignition timing set correctly, the timing that you're seeing on the laptop could be anything compared to what the engine's actually getting. So for example we could be putting into our timing table, our ignition timing table in our ECU what we consider to be a conservative ignition value.

Maybe for example 15 degrees under wide open throttle, full load. The engine on the other hand though might be receiving 30 degrees if our ignition timing is incorrect by 15 degrees. So obviously this brings in scope for a lot of engine damage if the timing is over advanced and the engine is suffering from detonation and maybe we're not monitoring that.

On the other side of the coin though, if our ignition timing is more retarded than our ignition table suggests, we could end up with a situation where our engine is providing sub par results because we're nowhere near MBT timing.

Now of course as usual we will be answering questions at the end of this webinar, so if you've got anything that I talk about that you'd like me to explain in more detail or anything relating to this particular topic, please ask those in the comments and we'll deal with those at the end. Alright so let's talk first of all here about why our base ignition timing may not be correct.

B16 ignition timing, any thoughts?

So I've already mentioned here, if you've got a car that's come to you that's been tuned by another tuner, the assumption is that they've done their job but of course assumptions are never a safe bet. So they may have done it incorrectly or overlooked it altogether. The other aspects which get a little bit more interesting here are that the markings on our crank pulley or the engine block may actually be inaccurate.

Obviously if we're dealing with a relatively standard engine, or a relatively new engine, it's pretty safe to assume that those markings should be accurate.

But where we can get into problems is if we've got an engine that has been fitted with an aftermarket crank pulley, or aftermarket harmonic dampener, often these will have timing marks on them but it's not a guarantee that these timing marks will actually match the factory marks. So here we really wanna be quite careful and check and make sure that those timing marks are accurate.

The other aspect here is if we've got an engine that's got very high mileage with an old harmonic dampener on it, we can get into a situation where the harmonic dampener will start to fail and basically debond. So we've got a harmonic dampener here and basically these are a two piece item.

We've got an inner hub which bolts to the crankshaft, and then we've got the outer hub. Now might be struggling to see this here, let's actually see if I can find them. We've got the timing marks, this is actually a Honda B series crank pulley, we've got the timing marks on the outer edge of this particular harmonic dampener. But between the outer harmonic dampener and the inner, we do have a rubber sleeve.

b16 ignition timing

Now when that pulley's all in good condition, everything should be just fine, but in high mileage applications, sometimes these harmonic dampeners are known to fail, and what that can mean is that the outer rotates relative to the inner, and of course when that happens our timing marks on our pulley no longer align correctly with the correct spot on the crankshaft.

So these are things that we do need to consider.Ignition timing is tough to understand, but easy to adjust and set. Just for your edification, I'll go into the what's what on timing on this page, but if you have zero interest in all of the complexities of ignition timing, why it's important to how well your engine is running, and why it can be disastrous if it's off, you should skip all of the tech talk and simply get out your manual to make the adjustments.

Your engine is a complex symphony of rapidly moving parts -- pistons, rods, valves, pulleys, camshafts, a crankshaft -- all of these heavy, strong pieces are moving with great velocity inside your engine.

Engine Ignition and Cam Timing for the Novice

Your piston moves up and down, the valves move in and out, the connecting rods push and pull, and the crankshaft spins wildly at the center of it all. This symphony plays itself out thousands of times every minute as you drive down the street.

There are two kinds of timing that take a seat at every engine event. The first is called cam timing, the second is ignition timing.

Cam timing has more to do with all of the heavy stuff moving fast inside your engine. Remember the valves and pistons? Both of these are moving, and the piston is moving with the explosive oomph provided by the other cylinders in your engine.

How to adjust B16 Ignition Timing?

Your engine has a timing belt or chain that does a lot more than take energy from the spinning crankshaft and use it to spin the camshaft or camshafts.

Its job is to make sure the valves are out of the way when that piston comes flying toward the engine's head. In some engines, the piston can actually impact a valve at the top of its movement. In these engines, called "interference" type engines, even a slight slip in cam timing can be catastrophic and result in a complete engine overhaul -- thousand of dollars. This is one reason it's so important to inspect your timing belt for wear or damage. Luckily unless you've been doing some serious work on your car, the cam timing is probably right on the money.

If it wasn't, you'd know it because your car would be running horribly, if at all. Your ignition timingon the other hand, can be throw off by any number of little things. The good news is it's just as easy to adjust and reset.

A little history: The engine in your car or truck has 4 cycles. Each one of these cycles is repeated in each cylinder. First, it sucks in air and fuel. Most new cars use direct injection so the air gets sucked in through the intake valve while the fuel is blasted in by a precise injector.

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The second part, or stroke, in each cylinder is called the "compression stroke. This creates heat and volatility in the mixture.Privacy Terms. Hondata Hondata User Forum Skip to content. Quick links. Here are the steps I did.

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I did NOT jump the jumper I usually do to set ignition timing 3. In the Smanager software I clicked online, and then set ignition timing 4.

Adjusted the distributor untill the pointer on the timing belt cover was pointing at the middle mark of the three. What have you guys experienced? The car seems to idle better, and feels good all the way to redline. Pulled plugs to check for signs of detonation, and didn't see any. If I left out any info that would be useful, please ask. Thanks in advance. Has the cylinder head or block ever been milled? No, neither the head or deck has ever been milled.

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Head gasket is stock honda 3 layer. Car also has IACV bypassed from intake mani, but it's still plugged into ecu to avoid code. So the car idles at 1, If I understand the "set timing" feature correctly though, it takes any advance from the map out so it shouldn't matter In any case, the pulse detection is carried out by ECU hardware - not the calibration.

Check the cam timing using a rod on the piston to find TDC and 6mm 5mm? Board index All times are UTC.Ignition timing is when the distributor sends an electric spark into the engine to ignite the fuel.

This fuel ignition is what powers the car. The sequence in which this happens is very finely balanced, or "tuned," to provide maximum power and economy. When he timing is not set properly the car may experience hard starting, low power or bad gas mileage. Setting the timing is normally an easy task, but sometimes the manufacturer's timing marks are missing or damaged. Setting the timing without any marks is not difficult with the right information and a few common tools.

Mark the spark plug wires for the cylinder number using a short piece of masking tape on each wire. Remove all the spark plugs using the spark plug wrench.

The engine will be easier to turn by hand with the spark plugs removed and it's a good time to replace them if required. Remove the valve cover from over the number one cylinder. On a V-block engine this is normally the valve cover on the driver's side. On in-line engines the number one cylinder is the one closest to the front of the car.

b16 ignition timing

Check your vehicle's specifications to be sure which cylinder is number one. Rotate the engine clockwise and observe the valves on the number one cylinder. When both valves are in the up position, insert a screwdriver into the number one cylinder through the spark plug hole. Rotate the engine very slowly back and forth until the screwdriver is at the maximum height. Locate the number one spark plug wire on distributor cap and make a tic-mark of this position with a marker pen on the distributor housing.

Remove the distributor cap and observe the position of the rotor. Loosen the distributor hold down bolt and turn distributor until the rotor is lined up with the mark you made in Step 3.


Your timing is now set to zero degrees of mechanical timing. Replace the valve cover using a new gasket. Replace the spark plugs and spark plug wires using the marks from Step 1.

You may want to mark the harmonic balancer with a zero point referenced to a fixed point on the engine. A fixed point could be a bolt head or accessory bracket that does not move when the engine is running. Later on this mark can be used as an indicator for stroboscopic timing.

Connect a vacuum gauge to a manifold vacuum source. Most engines will have a port at the base of the carburetor or throttle body where a gauge can be connected. Start the engine and observe the vacuum gauge reading. Turn the distributor until the maximum vacuum gauge reading is noted. Back off one inch of vacuum from the maximum reading. Tighten the distributor hold down bolt.

Normal readings average from 14 to 21 inches of vacuum depending on the condition of the engine. Test drive the vehicle and listen for pinging noises. Repeat Steps 5 and 6 if excessive pinging is heard, or if there is a significant loss of power. The timing is correct when the vehicle operates at maximum power without the engine hard starting, backfiring, or pinging on acceleration. This article was written by the It Still Works team, copy edited and fact checked through a multi-point auditing system, in efforts to ensure our readers only receive the best information.

b16 ignition timing

To submit your questions or ideas, or to simply learn more about It Still Works, contact us. Step 1 Mark the spark plug wires for the cylinder number using a short piece of masking tape on each wire.